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Aug 2010
We landed in Broome with sore heads from the far too many functions
attended. Now I must gather a little more energy and somehow celebrate
the fact that I have been alive for five decades. Is this a milestone?
Must I write a speech? Will it be just another boozy evening?
Shall I feel unwell for a few days with post birthday depression,
dehydration and the shock of discovering half my life is gone? Probably
but that’s life. Carolina managed to acquire a brilliant birthday
fish-cake to help ease the pain of celebration. As I have a strong love
of these Thai savoury cakes and not being a sweet tooth kind of guy
this was my ideal cake.
Next amusement will be the infamous Broome Cup event where horses run
around a red pindan dirt track and people run around the horses wearing
hats, sweating, laughing, screaming and drinking galore. I can do that
surely!
My Broome exhibition at Short St. gallery titled SECRET GEOGRAPHY takes
a peek at a number of locations I have visited around the planet from
high up in the Andes to way down on isolated sub-Antarctic islands.
Please visit the website www.shortstgallery.com.au
An informal dinner party was arranged in my studio to meet and
entertain an excellent mob of roaming artists who were in the middle of
a road trip across the NT and the Kimberly region. Tour maestro Steve
Eland along with artists Sam Leach, Cang Xin, Tony Lloyd, Shi Jingsong,
Ben Armstrong, Wu Daxin and writer Ashley Crawford all survived my Roo
Randang (Kangaroo coconut curry), Chinese dried and steamed sausages
and a slab of beer. Over dinner the group prepared themselves for more
bush camping then much more kilometres onwards to Beijing and to Lhasa
for the second leg of this collaborative Aussie-Sino trip. Their
visit was a great break from my sweaty regime here in the hot green
shed. The Shinju Matsuri festival is also on this month celebrating the
multi-cultural aspects of this town along with the interesting pearling
industry, which basically built Broome.
Carolina has slipped back to Argentina in order to resume work at the
Bodega. Our separation will be far less than last year but still a
separation. We both work hard at our individual chores as we watch the
weeks slop along.

July 2010
I miss the cinnamon crispbread for
breakfast,
the icebergs cruising by just outside the window, the howling husky
dogs, the noisy flutter of helicopters overhead moving to and from the
settlements and even Carolinas unique Greenlandic seal soup. The very
cute Upernavik retreat was really a great spot to be for a month. I
suggest some exploration about that part of the globe. Carolina
and I managed to adapt to that midnight sun
lifestyle rapidly
but now we are back to nights, crowds, mobile telephones and assorted
big city chaos.
Nine hours spent at Dubai airport waiting for a connecting flight was
less than fabulous after which we fell into Hong Kong through a
mountain of hot misty tropical cloud. Hong Kong is a grand city that is
always pumping and it certainly was for the six days we stayed there.
Hong Kong Island is a very different island to Upernavik but similar
with its array of strange smells and odd food, each morning the pungent
stink of gingseng floated from a nearby import shop to where we stayed.
I drank a lot of iced coffee called “Mr Brown” and attempted to
acclimatize fast from an Arctic climate to a tropical one.
In Chinese the expression for landscape is
shan
shui which roughly translates as ‘mountains water.’ Hong Kong has both
these things so qualifies as a fabulous landscape as long as brown vile
clouds do not conceal the beauty of its mountains and water. Next up
was Queensland.
Brisbane was a rapid and jam packed visit involving the showing of my
70 KNOT paintings at Milani gallery, a lovely dinner or two, friends to
locate, a dog called Chilli to look after and attempts were made to
find time to take a relaxed stroll around this culturally active city
that expands rapidly as I write this blog.
Now Melbourne my hometown surrounds us and I
have family and friends to see, art exhibitions to prepare for, some
interviews and many things to sort out as usual. I cannot complain but
busy-ness can be rather draining after the very mellow polar social
structures I have recently situated myself in.
The Mornington Peninsula Regional Gallery exhibits a body of my work
under the title - An UNSTILL-LIFE. This is a short stroll through
fifteen large works and nine small works of mine with the hope of
displaying a few years of my wanderings via these works that were all
spawned on the road.
At William
Mora
gallery I hang another body of work from my travels in Antarctica
during 2009. This BLIZZ-LINE show is a selection of works produced at
Mawson station in the Wombat Studio/science building. Soon after this
show
opens and the farewell drinks have been drunk then Carolina and I jump
on a
plane to find some heat and some Broome-time.
May 2010
I’m sitting in the middle of Mendoza with a
short black coffee and a glass of water on my table. The café
sits on a busy cross-road so thousands of vehicles cruise by along with
the odd protest march, business suits and one crazy person talking to
someone that is not there. On my table is a book – ‘The cloudspotters
guide’ by Gavin Pretor-Pinney, above me there are no clouds at all but
smog and thick dust swirl around making my eyes water. These ‘clouds’
are not in the book and I certainly wish that they did not exist at all
but they do. Far too many of these clouds which I will name – ‘Stratus
nubulosus translucidus venenum’ or the more filthy ‘Stratus opacus
toxicus’ varieties cover our planet. Here I sit waiting to board
another jet aircraft hypocritically smoking a cigarette, adding
considerably to this sad brown cloud surrounding me. We humans make
such a great mess.
To get from La Consulta in Argentina to
Upernavik in Greenland took some time. First there were friends to see
in Buenos Aires, a pit stop in Sao Paulo, across the Atlantic to London
Heathrow airport and then a night in Copenhagen. Luckily the Icelandic
volcanic activity at Eyjafjallajokull had ceased enabling flights to
resume in northern European airspace. Many years ago I walked over that
very same volcano that lay hidden under a glacier. Besides spitting out
massive plumes of ash and smoke it has also instigated a bit of
‘jokulhluap’ an Icelandic word referring to the rapid melting of ice
due to geothermal activity. A situation where a glacier rapidly turns
into a river then the river turns to lava. Nature can also be messy.
We flew over Iceland but no grey smoke was
seen
then suddenly Carolina and I found ourselves in the Arctic. Below the
Arctic circle as we crossed borders customs-security people felt the
urge to weigh and search though our bags then internal flights in
Greenland or Kalaallit Nunaat required both the weighing of our bags as
well as our bodies before we could board the DASH 7 shuttle
planes. Light aircraft and heavy cargo don’t mix I believe. The
flights between Kangerlusssuaq, Ilulissat and Upernavik were all smooth
and seriously scenic, extremely grand but far from green.
The population of Greenland is only 56,000 but the area of land (80 %
which is ice covered) is a massive 2,166,086 sq. kms. The last time I
was here was in 1993 and since then the climate has indeed changed as
according to local Greenlanders last winter the sea ice around
Upernavik failed to freeze over to a suitable depth which ruined the
hunting season and limited winter travels. More human mess I am
afraid!
I bought a bottle of Linie Aquavit as it’s a favorite and is flavored
by travel so I have a connection with this particular spirit. Marketed
as “taste that really travels” it is a very good Norwegian brand that
sails from Oslo to Australia and back again in oak sherry casks. The
changes in temperature, humidity and the roll of the ship all play a
part in the maturation as the booze twice crosses the equator during
its production. For a travel addict like myself this seems logical, is
fitting to my taste and as a popular bald cartoon character once said -
“Alcohol, the cause of … and the solution to all life’s problems”.
Carolinas selection at duty free heaven was the marvelous Bison grass
flavored Polish vodka with a delicate green coloring and a not so
delicate 40% alcohol content.
The little “retreat” we stay in sits on the
outskirts of the village. Connected to the small museum here that
houses historic local relics, artwork and a shop. For further
information about this residency visit <www.upernivik.gl>.
Upernavik has a population of 1200 people and many yelping husky dogs.
It is expensive to get here, live here and to move around but well
worth it if you have the desire to spend time in the high arctic. To
some degree hunting and fishing still play a role in most of the
inhabitant’s lives but things change fast as they do everywhere.
Hunting is the act of searching for something specifically pursuing
game. I am here hunting views and translating these into small
Travailogue paintings. That is my game. A small exhibition titled
Isikkivimmik ujaasineq (searching for views) is to be held at the
Museum to display my new works along with Carolina’s photographs.
Denmark laid the foundations for this now
self
-governed nation, which is the largest island in the world and possibly
the most beautiful as long as you don’t equate beauty with fresh
coconuts, heat and lots of verdant vegetation.
There will be no reindeer, narwhal skin or seal soup to be found at our
next port of call but plenty of other exotic dishes to be found under
hazy hot neon Hong Kong smog.
March - April 2010
Over the past two months Argentina has performed mostly warm nights and
hot dry days with the occasional wild storm blasting through complete
with marvellous cloudscapes. Big rains wet the grape vines and wash
away the dust with electrical storms strobing the sky every so often.
The horrific earthquakes over the Andes in Chile were certainly noticed
here via numerous rumblings, tremors and after shocks. We sit a long
way from the epicentre but the primary earthquake did wake us up by
shaking the whole house but no damage occurred in La Consulta. Such
tectonic plate movement reminds us all of our fragility and puts many
things rapidly into perspective.
Way above this geological activity on the green surface of earth, all
around our house grapes are being plucked and will soon head towards
massive vats. Later the fermented juice is bottled and finally arrives
onto tables surrounded by people dining or perhaps friends just sipping
the transformed fruit while chatting, laughing, seducing, arguing or
just babbling on with a mixture of juicy gossip and local information.
My time has been spent putting some order into a book draft that will
probably take another decade to complete but all the words and ideas
seem to be there it’s the order that’s lacking any order.
These past months I have also been slogging away at the computer
preparing for my five exhibitions in Australia as well as making a
rough cut documentary dealing with my time at Mawson station last year.
I quickly discovered that editing and culling a year of experiences
into ten or even thirty minutes is far from easy.
Please go to {www.youtube.com/user/saintonion} to see the 9-minute
self-made documentary - WINTEROVER.
I wish to especially thank Steve Heather in Berlin for the superb
soundtrack.
To stop getting any computer typing cramps or laptop addiction I hunt
for large rocks and move them from one location on the vineyard to
another. I think this is some form of landscape gardening but others
would just call it “strange behaviour.” It is definitely exercise and
the selection of rocks that have tumbled down from the Andes during the
past eon or so are most pleasing to toy with. I construct rock
pavements, cactus gardens or just build up piles of rocks for my
amusement. I sometimes wonder if I should I seek professional help
regarding this pastime of mine and I don’t mean a qualified landscape
designer or stonemason.
During the middle of the year I will be moving around Australia showing
Antarctic works and possibly drinking a beer or two. My 2010 Australian
solo exhibitions are as follows -
70 KNOTS
@ MILANI GALLERY.
Brisbane. Opening July 01.
www.milanigallery.com.au
UNSTILL LIFE
@ MORNINGTON PENINSULA REGIONAL GALLERY.
Victoria. Opening July 10.
www.mprg.mornpen.vic.gov.au
BLIZZLINES
@ WILLIAM MORA GALERY.
Melbourne. Opening July 22.
www.moragalleries.com.au
SECRET GEOGRAPHY
@ SHORT STREET GALLERY.
Broome. Opening August 25.
www.shortstgallery.com
A GOOD DAY
TONIGHT
TURNER GALLERY.
Perth. Opening September 17.
www.turnergalleries.com.au
Before these shows in Australia I travel with Carolina about 11,800
kilometres northwards to the north west coast of Greenland.
My next blog will therefore be sent from an Arctic village called
Upernavik located on a small island where no penguin has even been but
there is a very large icecap nearby. We will soon pack our bags with
some thermal underwear, fluffy socks and other fashionable items of
clothing. It’s not the most direct route to Australia from Argentina
but who says direct is the best way anyway?
Jan - Feb 2010
I believe I am in Argentina now and the southern hemisphere summer
festive season is in full swing, Carolina and I are getting to know one
another again after our rather long separation due to my Icy
desires. Many normal things still seem a little odd and
surprising to me but the unantarctic pace, activities and views I now
run around in will soon be totally natural.
Hobart, Melbourne and Sydney were blurry and
fast stops with a great deal condensed into 17 days. I could not see
everyone I wished to but I did my best. It was difficult as I was still
running on a very strange nameless time zone that just did not dovetail
with my frantic movements. I flew over the Pacific Ocean just before
Xmas and got sweaty in Buenos Aires for a day then Carolina and I
jumped on to a large catamaran in order to reinvent our marriage after
all this time. A mini second honeymoon was implemented in the cute town
of Colonia del Sacramento on the banks of the massive Rio de La Plata
in Uruguay. I can recommend the Posada Plaza Mayor for such an
activity. I slowly wind down and rearrange my brain as Carolina and I
tumble back into our La Consulta lifestyle. Heat and a form of domestic
comfort that I have not felt for a long time now surround me. “All
good” as they say.
In order to control my belly’s expansion
plans
I jog some nights around the vineyard with our three farm dogs; Rahael
Ricardo who hunts armidillos, Tinta who just wants to eat and Negro who
makes strange pig noises for some reason are all pretty good guard dogs
hopefully protect us from corrupt politicians, dirty police, bandits
and occasionally large frogs that jump through the windows.
It is now well into 2010 so I wish everyone
luck and fun for this new year. Our celebrations were perfectly minimal
and predictably involved a classic Argentinean asado-bbq with a bottle
or two of superb Malbec wine from Carolinas winery.
www.aconquija.com. Salud!
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